Forcing Bulb Basics

The ever-so-lucky folks who live on the West coast probably take it for granted that they have flowers and green vegetation in their gardens all year round. The vast majority of us in Canada survive several months of the year without seeing a leaf or a blade of grass, let alone the luxury of a bright beautiful bloom. Don't get me wrong, we love the fragrant beauty of our pine needles, but a dash of bright colour really could make a world of difference during the long, cold, grey winter.

So, why not bring those gorgeous, fragrant, spring flowers that we all wait so patiently for all winter long, indoors to bloom all winter long? Forcing bulbs is easy, fun, and guaranteed to cheer up any home during the winter-bound months. Read on to find out what it means to force bulbs, when you should start, how you should plant them, what it means to cool or chill your bulbs, and when you can expect them to start blooming. Also read a short guide on some of the easiest and most popular bulbs to force in your home.

Forcing Bulb Basics

At the simplest level, to force a bulb really means just that, to create an environment that pushes the bulb through its natural growth stages quicker than

it would happen on its own - essentially you trick the bulb into blooming outside of its natural rhythm.

Timing: The best time to get bulbs for forcing is in the fall or early winter months. Any time from September until December you will find healthy bulbs at your local nursery or flower shop, marked good for forcing. Often these stores will sell forcing kits, a complete package of everything you will need to grow your bulbs indoors, including the pot, the bulbs and step-by-step instructions. These kits are a great way to enjoy forcing bulbs with your kids. As a loose guide, if you want your bulbs to bloom in January, normally you'll need to begin forcing in early September, if you want them to bloom in February, begin in October and so on. Remember, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to grow, so do a bit of research before you begin.

Potting: If you are planting bulbs in soil, choose a pot that is at least twice as tall, and as wide, as your bulb. Fill the pot with light potting soil and plant the bulb, pointed side facing up, just below the surface. You should be able to see the point of the bulb poking out of the soil. If you are planting multiple bulbs in one pot (which will give you a beautiful, full display) make sure to plant the bulbs close together, but never touching one another. Water the soil well, and be sure to keep it moist at all times, but never allow water to stand at the bottom of the pot; you must use a container with a good drainage hole.

Water Culture: Several bulbs can be easily forced using water and pebbles, instead of soil. This is known as water culture. This is an especially fun way to force bulbs in a classroom or at home with your kids, because you can really see the roots develop and closely observe the changes to the bulb itself as it grows.

For some bulbs, such as crocus or hyacinths, you can purchase special containers for forcing with water. The bulb sits in a small cup at the top of the container and the wider bottom portion of the container is filled with water. If you prefer to grow several bulbs together in water you should chose a wide, shallow container, fill it half full with pebbles, marbles or sea glass. Place bulbs on top of the layer of pebbles and then gently fill the rest of the container with pebbles, anchoring the bulbs in without completely covering them up. Put water into the container only to the level where it is touching the base of the bulbs.

Note: It is very important not to have bulb submerged in water as they will quickly rot. Only have water touching the very base of the bulb and change water every few days to keep it fresh.


Now that your bulbs are planted, you're not quite finished with them yet. Most bulb types are going to need a chilling period before they will flower. Read on to find out how it's done.

Chilling Period: Outside in the garden, a bulb requires the cold winter season in order to store enough energy to grow tall stems and flowers in the spring. If you want to grow stems and flowers inside during the winter months, you will have to simulate this cold spell with your bulbs, either by storing them in a dark, cool basement or, in some cases, even keeping them in the refrigerator for several weeks. Each type of bulb requires a different chilling period, ranging anywhere from ten weeks to no more than a day or two. A basic rule to remember is to leave your bulbs in their cooling spot until they are showing hardy signs of growth, such as roots coming out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot or until that fresh stem is sprouting about two inches out of the top of the bulb.

Blooming: Once the signs of growth are strong, it's time to move your plants out into the warmth and sunlight. Moving them in stages will help ensure healthier blooms. Start them off in a cooler area of your home, until they have adjusted to the warmer temperature and the brighter light. When stems take on a very healthy green colour, move them into full sunlight and watch the beauty unfold. Again, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to bloom and last for a different length of time. As a general rule, the cooler your home, the longer the flowers will last. Sadly, almost all forced bulbs will only grow once, as they have used up all of their stored energy during the forcing process. Once the flowers have died, discard your bulbs and the soil, clean the pots and put them away until next winter when you can begin the process all over again.

Popular Bulbs for Forcing

Technically, any bulb can be forced to bloom indoors, however, there are some that are much easier than others, and much more practical to try because of their fragrance, strength, or blooming period. Here are a few that are popular and relatively easy to force, along with some basic tips on how to get them to grow.

Paper White Narcissus: One of the easiest bulbs to force indoors because these bulbs do not require much of a cooling period and will grow very quickly once they have been potted. If you buy the bulbs very early, before the end of September, you should store them in a cool dry place until you pot them, and it's recommended that you pot them before the end of October. Paper whites grow very well in water and pebbles. They are extremely fragrant.


Amaryllis: A very easy bulb to force, these giant flowers will certainly add colour and delight to any home. Bulbs must be planted in soil, and be sure to leave at least an inch of space between the bulb and the sides of the container. Once you've planted your bulb near the surface of the soil, water well (ensure that your pot has drainage) and store in a sunny window. The warmth will encourage growth. Once growth begins, move to a cooler, shaded area so the blooms last. Healthy amaryllis will bloom for approximately one month and the leafy portions can be treated as a normal houseplant once the flowers are spent.

Hyacinths: Can be forced in about eight to ten weeks and will grow in both soil and water and pebbles. Special hyacinth glasses are also available. These bulbs require a cooling period in a place with a temperature no higher than 10 C. Once roots have grown and the bulb has sprouted substantially (3 to 5 inches), move into a warm spot with direct sunlight. Hyacinths will bloom for about one week.

Crocus: Crocus can also be grown both in soil and in water, and you can buy crocus glasses to fit individual bulbs. They will bloom in approximately 10 weeks and flowers last for several weeks, provided you keep them in a cool place. You'll need to cool your crocus in a dark dry place until roots have filled the glass or until you see a small pale shoot about an inch high. Place in indirect sun until shoot is bright green, then expose to full sunlight.


Tulips: Everybody's favourite spring bloom can be grown indoors in the winter, but is one of the more difficult bulbs to force. Remember to always point the flat side of a tulip bulb toward the edge of the pot, as this is where the largest leaf will emerge. Tulips are prone to virus, so be sure that they have excellent drainage, and are exposed to good air circulation. Tulips require a very long chilling period - up to 16 weeks - in order to produce healthy blooms, so it's best to start forcing in early September, if you wish to have flowers by January.

Forcing Bulb Basics

The ever-so-lucky folks who live on the West coast probably take it for granted that they have flowers and green vegetation in their gardens all year round. The vast majority of us in Canada survive several months of the year without seeing a leaf or a blade of grass, let alone the luxury of a bright beautiful bloom. Don't get me wrong, we love the fragrant beauty of our pine needles, but a dash of bright colour really could make a world of difference during the long, cold, grey winter.

So, why not bring those gorgeous, fragrant, spring flowers that we all wait so patiently for all winter long, indoors to bloom all winter long? Forcing bulbs is easy, fun, and guaranteed to cheer up any home during the winter-bound months. Read on to find out what it means to force bulbs, when you should start, how you should plant them, what it means to cool or chill your bulbs, and when you can expect them to start blooming. Also read a short guide on some of the easiest and most popular bulbs to force in your home.

Natural Cleaners For your Home

Toss out those expensive chemical compounds and clean your home a safer, natural way.

 

For many of us, the thought of housecleaning conjures up the image of a huge array of cleaning products -- products with brand names and mysterious chemical ingredients.  The average person has been so bombarded with advertisements for these products that he or she actually believes cleaning is impossible without them.  We know of one woman who bought $38.32 worth of cleaning items alone on one trip to the supermarket.  And for many of us, these expensive products end up lying half-empty, moldering in kitchen cabinets.  But cleaning can be done without brand-name products, which are not only expensive but also can be dangerous your health.

Of the two million chemicals now in existence, only a few hundred have been tested adequately for their potential for causing cancer, liver or kidney damage, birth defects, and so on.  Even when there is a known danger, many chemicals remain in use.  Spot removers, for instance, contain either chlorinated hydrocarbons or petroleum distillates, and can be lethal even in small quantities.

Some 35,000 serious accidents occur each year with bleaches, dyes, waxes, polishes, and assorted cleaning compounds.  More than a thousand children in the United States die each year from accidental poisoning, often from chemical compounds.  Some swallow electric dishwasher detergent (the container may look like a cereal box), some drink furniture polish that resembles cherry soda.  But these are the acute cases.

A clue to long-run effects of these chemicals is found in the recent study showing that housewives have a cancer rate double that of women working outside the home.  Our houses contain many of the chemicals known to be cancer hazards in industry -- and many of these we use for cleaning.

However, we can reduce the number of dangerous chemicals in the home to a very few -- perhaps bleach, washing soda, and ammonia.  We can keep these under lock and key, and use them sparingly.  As for all the rest, the o-phenylphenols and isopropanols, we don't need them.

Here are some "grandmother-tested" ways to clean without dangerous chemicals, and save money, too.

Scouring powder:  Combine nine parts whiting (from a hardware store) with one part soap granules.  This mixture won't scratch surfaces as commercial products do, and it omits the unnecessary chlorine, which could accidentally combine with other chemicals -- like ammonia -- to produce dangerous chlorine gas.

Brass and copper cleaner:  Vinegar and salt paste.

Window cleaner:  4 tablespoons ammonia, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and 1 quart water, followed by lots of elbow grease with crumpled old newspapers for a special sparkle.

Drain cleaner:  First, try a plunger.  Then try 1/2 cup washing soda followed by 2 cups boiling water.  For a stronger treatment, combine a handful of baking soda with 1/2 cup vinegar.  Close the drain and let it sit, then flush with water.  Do this regularly to prevent buildup.  (Washing soda is an alkali much less caustic than lye, but it should be kept locked up.  It is dangerous.)

Rug cleaner:  Get the spill scooped or blotted up fast!  Dip a small brush in cold water and work out the spot.  For a grease spot, sprinkle a generous amount of dry baking soda or dry cornstarch on the spot.  Let it stand for an hour or so, then vacuum.  If the grease remains, try the Magic Spray Cleaner below, and a stiff brush.

Rug shampoo mix:  Mix 1/4 cup mild detergent or soap, with 1 pint of warm water and 2 tablespoons vinegar.  Whip into a stiff foam.  First, vacuum the rug thoroughly.  Apply the foam and scrub.  Let dry, then vacuum again.

Magic spray cleaner  (for surfaces other than varnish, aluminum or asphalt tile): 1/4 cup ammonia, 1/8 cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon baking soda, and 1 quart water.  Pour into glass or plastic bottle, screw on a hand squirter top, and enjoy.

Furniture polish:  Use paste wax or mineral oil, which are much less toxic than petroleum distillates like "lemon oil," which isn't from lemons.

Spot remover:  For fabrics that don't take to bleach, apply ammonia diluted with an equal amount of water.  Put paper towels underneath to blot.  If the ammonia odor clings, apply a table-salt solution.  (A last resort for old stains is a dab of vinegar.)

Oven cleaner:  Sprinkle spills generously with salt while the oven is still hot.  The burned deposit should scrape off with no trouble when the oven cools.  For thorough cleaning, set an open shallow dish of full-strength ammonia inside the cold oven.  Close the door and let it stand overnight.  The ammonia gas from the solution is absorbed by the grease, which ends up like soap.  Do not use this method on aluminum.

Deodorizers:  Use baking soda here, there, and everywhere -- down the drain, on baby spit-up, in diaper pails, refrigerators, cat litter and the kitchen sponge.  It's easy and simple.

But now that you've cleaned the house, you're hungry.  You eat, and then you have all those dirty dishes, rags, and the laundry, too.  What to do about them?  It's time to look at the great detergent/soap controversy.