Traducteur

Jan 30, 2010

Please be kind to our Feathered Friends


This is a very good time to be sure to give the birds Suet , They need it to stay warm.
Here are some recipes , but of course you can buy it already made .

How To Make Suet for Wild Birds

Making suet cakes for wild birds is actually an easy task and suet can be provided for the birds in a number of ways - you don't even need a recipe! Just follow a few guidelines.
Western bluebirds, chickadees, jays, towhees, warblers, woodpeckers and more will come to your yard for suet treats in all seasons, but I suggest limiting homemade suet treats to winter use. It's far too easy for the stuff to melt or go rancid in warmer months.

 
What is Suet? 
Pure suet is the fatty tissue that gathers around a cow's kidney area. You may be able to get some from your butcher, but in a pinch you can use lard from the grocery store. If you use pure suet, you might like to work outside using an electric frying pan as the task can be smelly.
If you'd prefer to live without the smell, wild birds do enjoy strips of suet straight from the grocery store or butcher shop hanging from a tree branch.
Homemade Suet Cakes
Making homemade suet cakes is simply a matter of melting fat down to a pour-easy consistency, adding a few ingredients of your choosing, then pouring the mixture into a mold. The shape of the mold is determined by the type of suet feeder you'll use.
If you are using lard or shortening for homemade suet cakes, adding equal parts of peanut butter flour will help maintain correct consistency of regular suet cakes.
To this warm and pour-able mixture you could add rolled oats, bird seed, cornmeal, raisins, unsalted nuts and anything else you think the birds would enjoy. Then, pour your warm suet 'soup' into the mold (a bread pan where you could slice off bits for your store bought suet feeder, cupcake tins that you could pierce with wire and hang from a tree, etc.) Specialty recipes are at the bottom of this page.
Keep any unused portions in the freezer for up to two months.
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The Suet Feeder
You can make your own suet feeder or buy one for a few bucks. I've fed suet using many methods - placing home made suet cakes in an onion bag, bending wire mesh around my cakes - but by far the most preferable suet feeder is one that is both easy to clean and protected by the elements.
Here's an example...
Nuthatch Suet Silhouette Feeder Verdigris for store bought suet cakes or homemade suet (see recipes below)...
...it's 10inW x 7inD x 9inH and has a lifetime finish. Simply hang it from a tree, clean and refill as needed and it doesn't look like some ugly fat hanging around your yard. The birds will love you for it!
(To make your own rustic suet feeder, visit Walter's page here.)

Here's a few more suet recipes you can make at home for the birds:

Birder's Oat Cakes

1 pound suet cut in small 1" pieces
1 cup rolled oats (quick cooking is best)
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup chunky peanut butter
1 cup mixed wild bird seed
1 cup sunflower seeds



  1. Melt suet in pot or microwave.



  2. Stir in remaining ingredients and blend well.



  3. Pour into paper-lined muffin tins.



  4. Chill until hardened or freeze.

Peanut Butter Cake

1 part melted beef suet
1 part chunky or smooth peanut butter
6 parts cornmeal 



  1. To the melted suet add peanut butter and cornmeal.



  2. Spoon into paper-lined muffin tins and cool.



  3. Store in the freezer until you're ready to use.

Birder's Delight (Nut 'n Apple Cake) 

1/2 pound of suet
2 cups bread crumbs
1 cup unsalted nuts
3 chopped apples
1 cup raisins
1 cup white sugar
1/4 cup of cornmeal
1/2 cup white or whole wheat flour
1 cup of smooth or creamy peanut butter
1 cup wild bird seed



  1. Mix all ingredients, adding enough suet as required to hold the 'cakes' together.



  2. Shape into balls or press into pine cones.



  3. Freeze and use as needed.

Please be kind to our Feathered Friends


This is a very good time to be sure to give the birds Suet , They need it to stay warm.
Here are some recipes , but of course you can buy it already made .

How To Make Suet for Wild Birds

Making suet cakes for wild birds is actually an easy task and suet can be provided for the birds in a number of ways - you don't even need a recipe! Just follow a few guidelines.
Western bluebirds, chickadees, jays, towhees, warblers, woodpeckers and more will come to your yard for suet treats in all seasons, but I suggest limiting homemade suet treats to winter use. It's far too easy for the stuff to melt or go rancid in warmer months.

Remember It's time for Forcing Branches


If you are like me you are getting very anxious for spring to arrive. Winters are long and right about now it's very cold and someday's are grey and depressing, 
Thats why I say it's time to go out and collect some branches to force the buds to open indoors,
To know more about this subject please read the post I have about this .

Remember It's time for Forcing Branches


If you are like me you are getting very anxious for spring to arrive. Winters are long and right about now it's very cold and someday's are grey and depressing, 
Thats why I say it's time to go out and collect some branches to force the buds to open indoors,
To know more about this subject please read the post I have about this .

Jan 29, 2010

Backyard ponds

 
This was my pond until it leaked but you can be sure I will make another one!!!


Backyard ponds

 
This was my pond until it leaked but you can be sure I will make another one!!!


Geranium Cuttings

Geranium Cuttings    
Geranuims -One of the easier plants to propagate is a geranium from stem cuttings. At the end of the summer you can take cutting from the plants that have been in your garden over the summer to produce plants for use next year.
Geranium cuttings stage by stage

  1. Remove a cutting with about 2 or 3 leaf joints from the top. Cut the stem just below a leaf joint and remove the lowest leaves to produce a bare stem that can be inserted into the cutting compost.
  2. If the cutting has any flower heads on it they should be removed so that the cutting directs its energy into rooting.
  3. The compost for the cutting should be a mixture of 50% sand and 50% peat. This will produce compost that is open so as not to rot the stem before it has rooted.
  4. Place three cuttings into 75-mm pots and water in. They will need to be placed on a windowsill or in a glasshouse. The most important consideration is to make sure that the temperature is even through the day. I.e. not becoming cold at night and too hot during the day.
  5. The cuttings should root in about 10 to 20 days. Once rooted they will need to be transferred into there own pots 75mm to 100mm using standard potting compost.
  6. Once the cutting has rooted you will need to pinch out the top to encourage the new plant to produce side shoots. 



.

    Geranium Cuttings

    Geranium Cuttings    
    Geranuims -One of the easier plants to propagate is a geranium from stem cuttings. At the end of the summer you can take cutting from the plants that have been in your garden over the summer to produce plants for use next year.
    Geranium cuttings stage by stage
    1. Remove a cutting with about 2 or 3 leaf joints from the top. Cut the stem just below a leaf joint and remove the lowest leaves to produce a bare stem that can be inserted into the cutting compost.
    2. If the cutting has any flower heads on it they should be removed so that the cutting directs its energy into rooting.
    3. The compost for the cutting should be a mixture of 50% sand and 50% peat. This will produce compost that is open so as not to rot the stem before it has rooted.
    4. Place three cuttings into 75-mm pots and water in. They will need to be placed on a windowsill or in a glasshouse. The most important consideration is to make sure that the temperature is even through the day. I.e. not becoming cold at night and too hot during the day.
    5. The cuttings should root in about 10 to 20 days. Once rooted they will need to be transferred into there own pots 75mm to 100mm using standard potting compost.
    6. Once the cutting has rooted you will need to pinch out the top to encourage the new plant to produce side shoots. 



    .

      Jan 20, 2010

      Why Are Trees Important?



      Trees are the most important and favorite part of my yard!!!

      Since the beginning, trees have furnished us with two of life's essentials, food and oxygen. As we evolved, they provided additional necessities such as shelter, medicine, and tools. Today, their value continues to increase and more benefits of trees are being discovered as their role expands to satisfy the needs created by our modern lifestyles.

      Community and Social Value











      Trees are an important part of every community.


      Our streets, parks, playgrounds and backyards are lined with trees that create a peaceful, aesthetically pleasing environment. Trees increase our quality of life by bringing natural elements and wildlife habitats into urban settings. We gather under the cool shade they provide during outdoor activities with family and friends. Many neighborhoods are also the home of very old trees that serve as historic landmarks and a great source of town pride.





      In addition, architectural and engineering functions are served by your community's trees. They frame landscapes, create beautiful backgrounds and enhance building designs. Trees can provide privacy, emphasize beautiful views, and screen unsightly areas. Noise from roadways and other urban activities is muffled by well-placed trees that serve as sound barriers. As a matter of fact, trees can reduce bothersome noise by up to 50% and mask unwanted noises with pleasant, natural sounds. Using trees in cities to deflect the sunlight reduces the heat island effect caused by pavement and commercial buildings.








      Ecological and Environmental Value



      Trees contribute to their environment by providing oxygen, improving air quality, climate amelioration, conserving water, preserving soil, and supporting wildlife. During the process of photosynthesis, trees take in carbon dioxide and produce the oxygen we breathe. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, "One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people." Trees, shrubs and turf also filter air by removing dust and absorbing other pollutants like carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. After trees intercept unhealthy particles, rain washes them to the ground,



      Trees control climate by moderating the effects of the sun, rain and wind. Leaves absorb and filter the sun's radiant energy, keeping things cool in summer. Trees also preserve warmth by providing a screen from harsh wind. In addition to influencing wind speed and direction, they shield us from the downfall of rain, sleet and hail. Trees also lower the air temperature and reduce the heat intensity of the greenhouse effect by maintaining low levels of carbon dioxide.

      Both above and below ground, trees are essential to the eco-systems in which they reside. Far reaching roots hold soil in place and fight erosion. Trees absorb and store rainwater which reduce runoff and sediment deposit after storms. This helps the ground water supply recharge, prevents the transport of chemicals into streams and prevents flooding. Fallen leaves make excellent compost that enriches soil.

      Many animals, including elephants, koalas and giraffes eat leaves for nourishment. Flowers are eaten by monkeys, and nectar is a favorite of birds, bats and many insects. Animals also eat much of the same fruit that we enjoy This process helps disperse seeds over great distances. Of course, hundreds of living creatures call trees their home. Leaf-covered branches keep many animals, such as birds and squirrels, out of the reach of predators.

      Personal and Spiritual Value

      The main reason we like trees is because they are both beautiful and majestic. No two are alike. Different species display a seemingly endless variety of shapes, forms, textures and vibrant colors. Even individual trees vary their appearance throughout the course of the year as the seasons change. The strength, long lifespan and regal stature of trees give them a monument-like quality. Most of us react to the presence of trees with a pleasant, relaxed, comfortable feeling. In fact, many people plant trees as living memorials of life-changing events.

      Trees help record the history of your family as they grow and develop alongside you and your kids. We often make an emotional connection with trees we plant or become personally attached to the ones that we see every day. These strong bonds are evidenced by the hundreds of groups and organizations across the country that go to great lengths to protect and save particularly large or historic trees from the dangers of modern development. How many of your childhood memories include the trees in your backyard or old neighborhood? The sentimental value of a special tree is simply immeasurable.

      Practical and Commercial Value

      Trees have supported and sustained life throughout our existence. They have a wide variety of practical and commercial uses. Wood was the very first fuel, and is still used for cooking and heating by about half of the world's population. Trees provide timber for building construction, furniture manufacture, tools, sporting equipment, and thousands of household items. Wood pulp is used to make paper.

      We are all aware of apples, oranges and the countless other fruits and nuts provided by trees, as well as the tasty syrup of North American sugar maples. But did you know the bark of some trees can be made into cork and is a source of chemicals and medicines? Quinine and aspirin are both made from bark extracts. The inner bark of some trees contains latex, the main ingredient of rubber. How many more uses can you name?

      Property Value and Economic Value

      Individual trees and shrubs have value and contribute to savings, but it is the collective influence of a well-maintained landscape that makes a real economic impact and has the greatest effect on property value. Direct economic benefits come from a savings in energy costs. Cooling costs are reduced in a tree-shaded home, and heating costs lowered when a tree serves as a windbreak. According to the USDA Forest Service, "Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30% and save 20-50 percent in energy used for heating."

      Property values of homes with well-maintained landscapes are up to 20% higher than others. Here are some eye-opening facts and statistics regarding the effect of healthy trees and shrubs:
      • Homes with "excellent" landscaping can expect a sale price 6-7% higher than equivalent houses with "good" landscaping. Improving "average" to "good" landscaping can result in a 4-5% increase.
        - Clemson University

      • Landscaping can bring a recovery value of 100-200% at selling time. (Kitchen remodeling brings 75-125%, bathroom remodeling 20-120%) - Money Magazine

      • A mature tree can have an appraised value between $1000 and $10,000. - Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers

      • 99% of real estate appraisers concurred that landscaping enhances the sales appeal of real estate. - Trendnomics, National Gardening Association

      • 98% of realtors believe that mature trees have a "strong or moderate impact" on the salability of homes listed for over $250,000 (83% believe the same for homes listed under $150,000).
        - American Forests, Arbor National Mortgage

      Why Are Trees Important?



      Trees are the most important and favorite part of my yard!!!

      Since the beginning, trees have furnished us with two of life's essentials, food and oxygen. As we evolved, they provided additional necessities such as shelter, medicine, and tools. Today, their value continues to increase and more benefits of trees are being discovered as their role expands to satisfy the needs created by our modern lifestyles.

      Community and Social Value

      Getting Children Interested in Growing Vegetables

      By starting your child gardening at an early age you may set them off with a lifetime hobby. There is the old saying "Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and you have fed him for a lifetime." Well it is the same with young children and gardening. Start them gardening now and they may develop a life long interest in growing their own fresh vegetables and there is nothing finer than fresh, wholesome and tasty vegetables except the ones you have grown yourself.


      Well in my view you need to give them their own space. Tell them this plot is yours. It does not have to be large, about 2 feet (60cm) square for younger children, or you could even get them started by growing crops or herbs in pots. Older children may prefer something larger. I know that a small high density bed that is only 2 foot by 2 foot doesn't sound very big, but it will be to a young child. A larger bed may just seem too big to do anything with to them, so start them small. If you have more than one child, give them their own high density bed each or just make a larger bed and divide this up into a section for each child and then divide this into mini plots for each crop. For very young children I would not make the bed more than 2 feet (60cm) wide as they can reach the middle of this from each side.
      What I would do is start them off with their own high density gardening raised bed built from timber that is at least 6 inches deep. This will give a soil depth which is deep enough for most easy to grow crops. You need to fill this with a soil mix and I would recommend buying this in the form of bagged peat or coir, bagged well rotted manure and maybe a bag of sterilized topsoil as well. As you have some manure in there you need to instill in your children good hygiene with hand washing after gardening and before eating. Mix your soil ingredients together and then fill the high density garden bed. If you are using 6 inch timber you will only need 2 cubic foot of soil mix. Once you have done this I would divide the bed into 4 mini plots using a brightly colored plastic string. I have gone for plastic as it does not rot and is safer for little hands than wire. Simply staple this to the timber. To increase interest, get your child involved in building the high density garden bed and even a trip to buy the soil mix and the seeds.
      You are now ready to start planting. But what do you plant. It all depends on the age of your child. Younger children want to see things happen quickly and the crop be ready as soon as possible. Older children may be prepared to wait to harvest the crop. For this reason I would suggest thinking about what crops to grow. Things like radish and lettuce are best as these are fairly quick to grow. That takes care of 2 of the mini plots and in the others I would suggest something like mixed salad, land cress, rocket or possibly 1 outdoor cherry tomato plant. Older children will have a much better idea of what they like and want to eat so go along with that but remember, the crops talked about here are quick growing.

      Cherry Tomato

      I know tomatoes take a long time to grow but a seed should be up in a week and then there is all the fun watching it grow to about 3 to 4 foot tall, keep tying it to the stake, pinching out the side buds, watching the flowers appear, then the tiny green fruit and so on. There is a lot to watch with tomatoes. You can start the plant off in a pot in the house. Try the kitchen windowsill. Put 2 or 3 seeds in and choose the strongest seedling. There is watering to be done, so buy a child size watering can for this job and make sure you stand the pot on a drip tray or old plate. If it is warm enough outside, you can just put the seeds straight into the mini plot. Make sure this is at the side farthest away from the sun as otherwise it would shade out the other smaller plants.
      Back to the high density bed, what to do now? It should be divided into 4 mini plots and each one of these will take a different crop.

      Radishes

      I would get your child to sow radish in one of the mini plots. Try dividing this up for them into 3 strips and sow 2 rows of radish in one of them, 2 rows in the next 2 weeks later and 2 rows in the final strip 2 weeks after than to give a timed cropping. Simply draw your finger to make 2 drills in which to drop the seed about half an inch deep. Try to get the seeds about an inch apart but this will not be easy for little fingers and cover the seeds with soil mix. It doesn't matter if there are gaps or too many seeds in some places, it is all part of gardening experience. If there are too many seedlings simply thin them out. You should be able to fill gaps in with these thinnings but they do not always transplant - but there is no harm in trying. When your child is planting the final third of the bed there will be radishes nearly ready for harvesting in the first third.

      Lettuce

      I would start these off growing in small flats or seed trays or better still in cells as these make a nice little plug to transplant. Rather than a hearting lettuce, I would grow a loose leaf type as they grow much quicker and can be harvested earlier. They also have the benefit of keeping growing as long as you harvest a few leaves of each plant when you need them.
      Once they seedlings are large enough, plant out 4 in a mini plot. Watch out for slugs and other pests but otherwise just watch them grow. Harvest the young leaves when ready.

      Mixed Salad Leaves

      Getting Children Interested in Growing Vegetables

      By starting your child gardening at an early age you may set them off with a lifetime hobby. There is the old saying "Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and you have fed him for a lifetime." Well it is the same with young children and gardening. Start them gardening now and they may develop a life long interest in growing their own fresh vegetables and there is nothing finer than fresh, wholesome and tasty vegetables except the ones you have grown yourself.

      Jan 19, 2010

      Adding Winter Interest to Your Garden



       

      Planning the Winter Garden

      Choosing plants that look good means forgetting about flowers and (mostly) about foliage. In the winter garden, bark, berries, and form become much more important.
      Evergreen trees add that all-important splash of color to the winter garden, and offer many other benefits as well. In snow, evergreens tend to turn into living Christmas postcards, and a small grove of them will have you quoting Robert Frost in no time. Evergreens are also an important source of winter food and shelter for birds, and if you plant them on the northern side of your house, they will reduce your energy bills by sheltering your home against cold northern winds.
      Evergreen shrubs, such as American holly (Ilex opaca), Firethorn (Pyracantha), and many junipers, also keep their green foliage all year, and many provide bright, beautiful berries that add color and interest to your garden while providing an important food source for birds.


      Many deciduous shrubs, such as Red-Twig Dogwood (Cornus stolinifera) have beautifully shaped or colored stems. Others, such as Winterberry (Ilex verticilatta), cotoneasters (evergreen in warmer climates), viburnums, barberries, chokeberries, coralberries, and beauty berry, have beautiful red or orange berries that linger into winter.
      Deciduous trees can be chosen for their attractive silhouette, and some also have berries or seeds that linger into winter. A few of my winter favorites include Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis), crabapples, and Japanese Maple (must be planted in a sheltered area in most of the Midwest). Some deciduous trees, such as River Birch (Betula nigra) and Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides), also have interesting textured bark
      Ornamental grasses offer interesting form and foliage in the winter months. Planted in large swathes or stands, they can also provide shelter and seeds for birds. A few of my favorites include Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), a native prairie grass that turns a beautiful coppery red in winter, and several varieties of Miscanthus.
      It may come as a surprise to learn that perenial plants can add winter interest to your landscape. Their blooms are long gone, their leaves dormant. However, many perennials have interesting seedheads which can last well into winter, providing beauty for you and food for birds. A few of my favorites include Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and Autumn Joy Sedum (S. 'Herbstfreude').
      evergreen groundcovers, such as Vinca, are great for adding a splash of color under bare-branched deciduous trees in winter.

      Other Ideas

      The architectural beauty of a branching oak or a drooping fir can be matched by human skill as well. Another great way to add interest to the winter garden is with trellises, archways, gazebos and other man made structures.
      Statuary and other garden art is another great way to add winter interest.
      A pond will be welcomed by wildlife in need of a drink, and can also provide an icy beauty of its own. Waterfalls add the relaxing sound of running water, and some pretty spectacular icicles during especially frigid weather.

      Adding Winter Interest to Your Garden



       

      Planning the Winter Garden

      Choosing plants that look good means forgetting about flowers and (mostly) about foliage. In the winter garden, bark, berries, and form become much more important.
      Evergreen trees add that all-important splash of color to the winter garden, and offer many other benefits as well. In snow, evergreens tend to turn into living Christmas postcards, and a small grove of them will have you quoting Robert Frost in no time. Evergreens are also an important source of winter food and shelter for birds, and if you plant them on the northern side of your house, they will reduce your energy bills by sheltering your home against cold northern winds.
      Evergreen shrubs, such as American holly (Ilex opaca), Firethorn (Pyracantha), and many junipers, also keep their green foliage all year, and many provide bright, beautiful berries that add color and interest to your garden while providing an important food source for birds.

      Forcing Branches

      Bring spring indoors early for winter color and fragrance

      by Nancy Gingrich Shenk
      A simple bouquet of forsythia hints at the spring ahead as it glows in the low January sun.A simple bouquet of forsythia hints at the spring ahead as it glows in the low January sun. Photo/Illustration: Jennifer Brown
      After all the Christmas decorations are packed away the house looks drab. So instead of letting the winter blues kick in, we make our rooms warm and inviting with flowers. We force the usual amaryllis, paperwhites, and tulip bulbs, but we also force branches into bloom to add even more color and fragrance to our suddenly quiet home. It is very satisfying to sit in our breakfast room early in the morning and observe the daily progress of forsythia buds as they swell and burst open. We cannot think of a more economical way to raise our spirits.


      Collect branches in January and February






        Nancy Shenk collects branches for forcing as she does her winter pruning. Forsythia is one of her favorites because it readily forces, even in the fall. Photo/Illustration: Jennifer Brown
      Many ornamental trees and shrubs set their flower buds during the previous growing season. These buds must experience a period of dormancy before they will open. After six weeks of cold temperatures, buds will usually come out of dormancy after two to three weeks of being exposed to warmth and moisture. Depending on your geographic location, usually by the time February arrives, most species suitable for forcing have experienced the required period of dormancy.
      Coincidentally, late winter is the best time to prune deciduous trees and large shrubs. We usually head out into the yard with pruners in hand starting in January. We get a jump-start on our pruning along with an early gift of spring color inside our house. We prune our trees and shrubs for shape and to remove crossing branches and old or diseased wood. From the wood we have cut off the plant we select branches for forcing that are less than 1/2 inch in diameter and cut them to the desired length.
      We like to prune on a mild winter day when the temperature is above freezing. Branches and buds are softer and more pliable and will be better able to make the transition from cold outdoor temperatures to warm indoor temperatures. We inspect the branches carefully when making our selections, looking for those with lots of plump flower buds. Flower buds are round and fat, whereas leaf buds are smaller and pointed. If we are not sure what type of bud we are looking at, we do a little bud surgery. When cut open, a flower bud will reveal miniature flower parts on the inside.

      Top choices for forcing




      Branches won’t flower until they’ve had a proper cold period, usually about six weeks. If you try to force a particular plant into bloom and it doesn’t work, it may be too early. Try it again in a couple of weeks.

      Earliest cutting time
      January
      Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas)
      Filberts – for catkins (Corylus spp. and cvs.)
      Forsythias (Forsythia spp. and cvs.)
      Fothergillas (Fothergilla spp. and cvs.)
      Witch hazels (Hamamelis spp. and cvs.)

      Late January/early February
      Bradford pear (Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’)
      Cherries (Prunus spp. and cvs.)

      Mid- to late February
      Beeches – for catkins (Fagus spp. and cvs.)
      Birches – for catkins (Betula spp. and cvs.)
      Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis)
      Lilacs (Syringa spp. and cvs.)
      Magnolias (Magnolia spp. and cvs.)
      PJM rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘PJM’)
      Quinces (Chaenomeles spp. and cvs.)
      Red maple (Acer rubrum)
      Serviceberries (Amelanchier spp. and cvs.)
      Willows – for catkins (Salix spp. and cvs.)
      Photo/Illustration: Bob Shenk (3)

      Recut branches and place them in a cool spot inside

      Our method for processing branches is pretty straightforward; we cut and gather the branches and bring them inside. We then add floral preservative, according to the instructions on the package, to a bucket of warm (100° to 110°F) water and set it aside. (You can make your own preservative with 1 tablespoon of Listerine or 1 tablespoon of lemon-lime soda per quart of water.) The preservative will promote hydration and retard bacterial growth, keeping the water clear for up to a week.
      Next, we fill a sink with very warm water. Holding the stems underwater, we recut them at a severe angle an inch or two above the original cut (see the tip below). For larger branches—around 1/2 inch diameter—we split the end of the stem in half for a distance of about an inch to allow more of the interior of the stem to be available to take up water.
      We immediately place the stems in the bucket of water. At this point we have a choice to make. We can simply store all of the stems in this bucket of water and set it aside in a cool place, like a protected porch or garage, where the temperature is 45° to 55°F, then arrange the branches for display when the first buds begin to show color. Or we could immediately create an arrangement, put the masterpiece in a place of prominence, and watch as the buds slowly swell and spring into bloom. In either case, to keep the branches healthy, we will change the water and add new preservative each week, or when we notice the water starting to discolor.  Both before and during bloom, place the branches away from bright, direct sunlight and away from any direct heat source, which will dry out the buds and branches and reduce overall bloom color and quality. Ideally, try to duplicate the cool, moist environment of spring weather. If you use common sense when selecting a location, your blooms should look good for at least a week. Branches forced for their foliage will last even longer.
      Most plant material that forces well is readily available in your backyard. By cutting several branches each week as winter turns to spring, you can have a continuous show of color during January, February, and March. Sometimes there are even surprises, so it pays to experiment. Last fall, expecting nothing, we cut some forsythia branches for accents in a large arrangement for our Thanksgiving celebration. To our surprise and delight, the forsythia bloomed in time for the holiday.

      Cutting Tip

      Photo/Illustration: Wendy Bowes
      After bringing the branches inside, fill a sink with very warm water—as hot as you can stand it without scalding your hands. Very warm water is important because it contains the least amount of oxygen. If oxygen gets into the stems it can block water from being taken up, thus preventing hydration. Hold the stems underwater and recut them at a severe angle an inch or two above the original cut. The stems will quickly absorb the water.

      Forcing Branches

      Bring spring indoors early for winter color and fragrance

      by Nancy Gingrich Shenk
      A simple bouquet of forsythia hints at the spring ahead as it glows in the low January sun.A simple bouquet of forsythia hints at the spring ahead as it glows in the low January sun. Photo/Illustration: Jennifer Brown
      After all the Christmas decorations are packed away the house looks drab. So instead of letting the winter blues kick in, we make our rooms warm and inviting with flowers. We force the usual amaryllis, paperwhites, and tulip bulbs, but we also force branches into bloom to add even more color and fragrance to our suddenly quiet home. It is very satisfying to sit in our breakfast room early in the morning and observe the daily progress of forsythia buds as they swell and burst open. We cannot think of a more economical way to raise our spirits.


      Collect branches in January and February




      Winter Bird Feeding



      Bird Feeding

      • Sunflower seeds are among the most versatile food for birds.
      • Where you live, the type of food you offer, and the habits of different bird species will determine the types of birds you will attract to your feeder.
      • There are ways to prevent squirrels, cats, and dogs from harming birds or their food at feeders.
      • It is best not to feed ducks and geese.


      Types of feeders
       
      The best way for most Canadians to start a study of birds is to establish a bird feeder, and the best time to feed birds is in the winter, when there are fewer species present and when many birds can be attracted to the bird feeder for observation. Watching the feeding birds can help people recognize the different species and learn about the birds’ habits of migration, nesting, and feeding.
      Feeding birds can be a very simple affair. Just scattering bread crusts on the snow or seed on a bench or table will attract some birds. But if bird feeding is to be a long-term interest, some additional steps should be taken to avoid problems.
      • The food must be protected from rain and snow or from unwanted guests such as squirrels.
      • It is best to place food in a feeder which protects seed from bird droppings.
      • The birds should not be made vulnerable to predation or other hazards by careless placement of the bird feeder.
      • It is important to continue feeding through bad weather so that any birds that may have become dependent on the food supply will be able to eat when they need to. This is most important just after winter storms. (Of course, if your neighbours are also putting out bird food, the birds are less dependent on any one feeder).




         



      A hopper-type feeder that can hold food for several days can help ensure a continuous supply. Many good feeders can be made at home. A plastic bleach bottle can be cut to provide a large opening in one side and then hung from a branch by its handle. Half a coconut, pine cones, or a piece of bark can be used to hold a suet mixture. Suet can be hung from a tree in a plastic mesh onion bag. A Christmas string of popcorn and cranberries draped on a tree is a festive offering for the birds. Just be sure that feeders have no exposed metal parts in areas where the weather gets very cold. Commercially built feeders can also be an excellent value.


      What to feed
       
      Try a few foods and use what works. Sunflower seeds are among the most versatile food for birds. Two kinds of sunflower seeds are used, a larger striped kind and a smaller black kind; the black kind is popular with more species of birds. Sunflower seeds may be used without any other food, if desired.
      Commercial bird seed mixtures sometimes contain seeds that are of little interest to most birds. Millet is good, but a study by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service showed that, in one region at least, white proso millet was generally preferred to yellow or red millet. Many species like cracked corn, but the corn is likely to spoil if wet, and it is more attractive to species, like pigeons, that are often considered pests. Oats, buckwheat, wheat, and rapeseed have limited interest for birds. Niger seed (an imported thistle seed) is excellent for small finches but can be expensive.
      Many types of kitchen scraps can be given to birds. Of these, some of the most often used are baked goods (give sparingly and watch for mould) and fats. Larger pieces of fat, especially beef suet, can be used as is or can be rendered by heating to separate the fat from the connective tissue. Melted fat can be mixed with bread crumbs and seeds and packed into dishes or other feeders. Peanut butter is loved by birds, but some people say it should be mixed with fat to reduce any danger of choking.
      Most birds appreciate water to drink if the weather is not too cold. Birds also use grit to help their digestion. Provide dirt, sand, or ground eggshells separately from other foods for this purpose. Sometimes a few wood ashes or a dry supply of salt can provide minerals the birds need.
      To limit cost, put a measured amount of food out each day, whatever you decide you can afford. If the feeder is empty an hour later, don’t worry. If you are consistent, the birds will adjust their foraging to the supply and find more food elsewhere.


      The birds
       
      What kind of birds can you expect once you’ve put out some food? The bird species attracted to a feeder will depend on many factors, including the geographic region you live in, the type of food you offer, the habitat of the immediate area, the habits of individual bird species, and the weather. Habitat is a very important factor in attracting birds: an area with trees and shrubs will be the most likely to appeal to them. It is also important to start feeding early in the fall before the birds become set in their winter foraging patterns.
      Table 1 lists many of the species that come to feeders in Canada. These species, most of which are discussed below, are widespread and can be found in most regions where there are mature trees, even in densely populated urban areas. Table 1 also indicates some of the birds’ favourite foods. Do not assume, however, that birds in your area will necessarily exhibit the preferences shown. Experiment, and you may find other useful foods not listed in the table.
      Chickadees are some of the most familiar birds that visit feeders. They travel around a small area of a few hectares, stopping in woodlots where they look for insects and insect eggs and coming to feeders for sunflower seeds and suet. They are adept at opening sunflower seeds by holding them with their feet and striking them with their bills, like little woodpeckers.
      Blue Jays are conspicuous visitors with their bright plumage. In the fall, Blue Jays store food, sometimes carrying away many sunflower seeds packed in their cheeks. At that time of year you might like to feed the Blue Jay some whole corn, which is less expensive than sunflower seeds. Blue Jays are much less trusting of people than chickadees are and usually retreat to a distant viewing point when people come to the feeder.
      Several species have changed their winter range, thanks to bird feeding. Among these are Evening Grosbeaks, which come in flocks for sunflower seeds. Cardinals have started nesting far north of their historical range, probably because of the winter food provided at feeders.
      Some birds are quite unpredictable in their annual visits to bird feeders. Redpolls, Evening Grosbeaks, and Pine Siskins come in variable numbers depending on their natural food supply and on the weather. Others, such as the Hairy Woodpecker and the Black-capped Chickadee, are resident year-round in the feeding area and so can be expected at feeders with some certainty.
      The House Finch is of special interest at feeders. It was originally a western species, but in 1941 a few individuals were released in New York City. Since then it has spread and has become common in southern parts of Ontario and Quebec. More recently it declined again, as a result of a disease that may have been spread, in part, through concentration of the species at bird feeders.
      Some birds that usually eat dormant insects and their eggs in the winter can be attracted to feeders by fat-rich foods such as suet, and, for some species, sunflower seeds. Nuthatches, woodpeckers, and chickadees are all fat-loving species. Some people do not like pigeons, starlings, or House Sparrows and prefer jays, chickadees, and finches. Offering sunflower seeds alone may help eliminate the first group and attract the second. Fat attracts starlings but is probably worth it if it brings woodpeckers too.
      A yard with plantings of bushes such as saskatoon, elderberry, mountain ash, nannyberry, and crabapple or vines such as wild grape or Virginia creepers will attract birds that eat fruit and are rarely found at regular feeders. Even the American Robin will overwinter where such a food supply is abundant.


      Problems

      Sometimes problems develop at bird feeders. Perhaps the most common is the presence of squirrels, which can eat a large amount of food and can also damage wooden feeders. It is possible to buy a squirrel-proof bird feeder. You can also make one at home by placing inverted metal funnels on the feeder post below the feeder or by positioning large disks above hanging feeders. Remember that squirrels can jump, especially from above, that they can walk on a tight rope, and that they can get toeholds on any imperfections in whatever you are using to exclude them.
      Cats and sometimes dogs can be a worse problem; they may kill the birds or take suet at feeders. If these animals have free range around the feeder, avoid giving them places to hide from which they can pounce on birds. Be sure the feeders are close to natural hiding places for the birds, such as shrubs, but far enough away from them—2 to 3 m—to keep birds safe from cats that may be using the shrubs as cover. Other predators may also visit feeders, but these wild animals have a role in nature, and we should respect their need for food.
      Sometimes birds fly into windows and injure themselves. This usually happens when feeders are placed less than 10 m from windows, because at this distance, birds can see vegetation reflected in the windows or through the windows. If a window near a feeder has a number of such bird strikes, try leaving a curtain closed when the birds are feeding. If this does not help, you may have to move the feeder. A bird feeder can usually be safely fastened to a window or placed very close to it, because in this case, if birds are startled while at the feeder, they will be moving too slowly to injure themselves if they hit the window.
      Most other problems can be avoided by regular attention to the feeder. Keep the feeder well stocked in bad weather, and do not let wet food stay in the feeder long enough to spoil. Notice which foods are being ignored by the birds, and adapt your feeding plan accordingly.
      Many people like to feed waterfowl, including ducks and geese. In fact, it is best not to do so. Water birds that come to rely on handouts may lose their compulsion to migrate and their fear of people, and they may pick up habits that might harm both the birds and people. When birds are not afraid of cars and planes, for example, they may cause safety problems by walking across roads or flying across airport runways. And the birds’ tendency to gather in large groups in confined areas when they expect to be fed increases competition for limited food supplies. When winter arrives, the added stresses of eating less nutritious food than they would consume under normal conditions and exposure to harsh weather make the birds more susceptible to life-threatening diseases. If you just can’t help yourself, don’t feed the birds before the end of the hunting season in your area. It is illegal to put out food for waterfowl during the hunting season except under permit. Your best food choices are grains like wheat and corn because they keep well outside.


      Other activities
       
      A well-established feeder provides a starting point for other activities with birds. Photography of birds at the feeder can provide hours of enjoyment. If you are taking pictures of birds, watch to see how they use branches as stopping places before they fly to the feeder. Set up your camera to focus on one of the branches for more natural pictures than are possible on the feeder itself. Feeding can be continued through the summer months to attract a different mix of species. You will sometimes be rewarded by local nesting species bringing their young to the feeder. It is interesting to keep records of the birds at your feeder. In Canada, the Long Point Bird Observatory in Port Rowan, Ontario, coordinates Project FeederWatch. In that survey, observers have recorded over 100 different kinds of birds at feeders, and many mammals as well.

      Winter Bird Feeding



      Bird Feeding

      • Sunflower seeds are among the most versatile food for birds.
      • Where you live, the type of food you offer, and the habits of different bird species will determine the types of birds you will attract to your feeder.
      • There are ways to prevent squirrels, cats, and dogs from harming birds or their food at feeders.
      • It is best not to feed ducks and geese.


      Types of feeders
       
      The best way for most Canadians to start a study of birds is to establish a bird feeder, and the best time to feed birds is in the winter, when there are fewer species present and when many birds can be attracted to the bird feeder for observation. Watching the feeding birds can help people recognize the different species and learn about the birds’ habits of migration, nesting, and feeding.
      Feeding birds can be a very simple affair. Just scattering bread crusts on the snow or seed on a bench or table will attract some birds. But if bird feeding is to be a long-term interest, some additional steps should be taken to avoid problems.
      • The food must be protected from rain and snow or from unwanted guests such as squirrels.
      • It is best to place food in a feeder which protects seed from bird droppings.
      • The birds should not be made vulnerable to predation or other hazards by careless placement of the bird feeder.
      • It is important to continue feeding through bad weather so that any birds that may have become dependent on the food supply will be able to eat when they need to. This is most important just after winter storms. (Of course, if your neighbours are also putting out bird food, the birds are less dependent on any one feeder).




      Jan 18, 2010

      Start Your Own Pepper and Tomato Plants



      If you want to grow interesting heirloom and/or unusual varieties of tomato and peppers you must start the plants from seed because the garden centers sell plants from only the most common types of these favorite vegetables. Get a jump on the season, sow seed indoors this winter - it's easy and fun and here’s how it's done.
      If you buy your pepper and tomato plants from the local garden store you have very few varieties to choose from. The various non-profit seed saver organizations, mail order seed catalogues and dedicated hobbyists on eBay offer seeds of hundreds of different kinds of peppers and tomatoes. It's easy to start your own plants and fun to discover new varieties. (This method will work for almost any kind of seed.) Here's how I do it.



      Supplies
      First you need to get the stuff. Everything you need can be purchased at your local discount store - or on eBay! Here's the parts list:

      • peat pots, 2.25 in (5.7 cm) size
      • black plastic trays with clear plastic covers, 11 x 20 in (28 x 50 cm)
      • wet-proof electric heating pad, 12 x 23 in (31 x 58 cm)
      • bag of potting mix
      • small identification labels
      • fine point permanent marking pen
      • tweezers or forceps
      • florescent "shop light" and two 40 watt plant-growth bulbs
      • plastic mist sprayer bottle
      • 16 or 20 ounce (0.5 l) plastic drink cups


      When To Plant
      Start seeds 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost in your area. Here in Zone 8B, we usually start seeds the second or third week of January. Your county extension agent can tell you the average date for the last frost in your area.

      Planting
      1. Pack the peat pots firmly with potting mix and arrange 32 of them in one 11 x 20 in (28 x 51 cm) plastic tray.
      2. Water the peat pots thoroughly until the potting mix and the peat pots are saturated. Firm the potting mix down again and pour any excess water out of the tray.
      3. Place two or three seeds on top of the potting mix in each peat pot and insert a labeled marker.
      4. Use forceps or tweezers to push the seeds a quarter-inch deep into the potting mix (depth may vary if planting other types of seeds - In general, plant seeds as deep as about 3 times their length.
      5. Install the clear plastic cover and place the tray on the heating pad set to medium heat.

      If a white mold forms on top of the peat pots, take the cover off the tray and let the peat pots dry out for a day or two; replace the top when the fungus is gone.

      Germination

      After 3 days, inspect the tray two or three times every day and remove each peat pot as soon as you see a tiny plant. Most tomatoes and peppers germinate in 3-10 days. After a week or two, you may need to mist the surfaces or add some more water to the tray of peat pots.

      Place the peat pots with the little seedlings in another black plastic tray and suspend the florescent lamps about one inch above the seedlings. The closer the better. Discontinue use of the heating pads and do not cover the trays. Mist the seedlings several times a day (or as they show signs of drying out) with a fine spray from a plastic plant sprayer bottle. (The drier the air, the more often they will need to be misted.) Raise the lamps as the seedlings grow, always keeping the bulbs as close as possible to the leaves. Leave the lights on 15-18 hours a day. Water as necessary by pouring water into the tray and letting the peat pots soak it up. Thin the seedlings to one plant per pot.

      Controlling Fungus Disease
      I never sterilize anything, I never use fungicides and I never have damping off, a fungus disease that kills seedlings that are kept too wet. My secrets: Never cover the seedlings after they have germinated. Mist the tiny seedlings when they are dry, but don't water the peat pots until they are dry on the outside and noticeably lighter in weight.

      Potting Up & Aftercare
      When the seedlings are 3-6 in (8-15 cm) tall, pot up into the larger plastic drink cups. Poke one or two 1/4 in (0.6 cm) holes in the bottom of each drink cup. (I use an electric drill to drill holes in the bottoms of several stacked cups all at once.)

      Tear off the top of the peat pot rim to the level of the potting medium (so it won't wick moisture away if it becomes exposed to the air) and place the peat pot in the drink cup, then fill it with potting medium, packing it all around the peat pot. Bury tomato stems as much as you can, leaving just a few leaves exposed (They will grow additional roots on the buried stem.). It doesn't matter whether or not you bury pepper and eggplant stems, but many other seedlings should not be buried deeper than they were in the original pot.

      Place the cups in another tray (you can use the same type of black plastic trays, but I use stronger, larger trays), and suspend florescent lamps an inch or two above the leaves. Hang the lamps at an angle and you can have the little peat pots under the lights on one end and the larger plastic cups at the other end. Keep the lights on 15-18 hours a day.

      Take the seedlings outside and leave them in the sun and the wind whenever the temperature is above 45º F (7º C) except for eggplant seedlings that need temperatures above 55º F (13 C). Here in North Florida, I can have my seedlings (even those still in the peat pots) outside many days in January and February.

      Water as necessary with water that has been spiked with the house-plant concentration (usually 1 teaspoon per gallon) of all-purpose plant food.

      Transplanting To The Garden
      Six to eight weeks after the seeds were first planted, the tomato and pepper plants should be 8-18" tall and ready to set out in the garden. Seedlings that received more time outside in the sun and wind will be shorter, stockier, stronger and healthier than plants that were confined indoors. Don't rush setting them out, either. If the soil and air are still below 50º F (10º C), they won't grow anyway.

      If the seedlings have not had a lot of time outside in the real world, you will need to acclimatize them before planting out in full sun in the garden. Harden them off by letting them have full sun for a few hours a day, gradually increasing exposure until they can stay in the sun all day without wilting. It's best to transplant on a cloudy day, in late afternoon. Water them an hour or so before transplanting.

      To set out your tomato plants, dig a gradually sloping trench and throw in a handful of lime (this reduces the chances of getting blossom-end rot). Slide the tomato plant and potting medium out of the pot, strip off the lower leaves, lay it in the trench, and cover all but just a few of the top leaves with 2-4 in (5-10 cm) of soil. Peppers, eggplants and most other seedlings should be buried upright, no deeper than they were in their pot, and they don't need the extra lime. Water well. Water some more.

      I make cages out of concrete reinforcing wire (looks like heavy duty hog fencing) to support my pepper and tomato plants.

      Enjoy
      Enjoy growing (and eating) heirloom and rare tomato and pepper varieties that you will never find in a store!

      Start Your Own Pepper and Tomato Plants



      If you want to grow interesting heirloom and/or unusual varieties of tomato and peppers you must start the plants from seed because the garden centers sell plants from only the most common types of these favorite vegetables. Get a jump on the season, sow seed indoors this winter - it's easy and fun and here’s how it's done.
      If you buy your pepper and tomato plants from the local garden store you have very few varieties to choose from. The various non-profit seed saver organizations, mail order seed catalogues and dedicated hobbyists on eBay offer seeds of hundreds of different kinds of peppers and tomatoes. It's easy to start your own plants and fun to discover new varieties. (This method will work for almost any kind of seed.) Here's how I do it.

      100% Shea Butter - Or Is It? 60


      Pure Shea Butter

       

      With the ever-increasing popularity of organic body butterShea Butter is an ingredient that is becoming popular as a super-moisturizer. The best thing about organic shea butter is that it can be scooped right out of the jar and applied to the skin. Unfortunately, the most popular brands of skin care products do not contain 100% shea butter. The moisturizers that you buy at the store contain very little shea butter. These products mostly consist of vaseline, petrolatum or mineral oil which clog our pores and damage our skin over time. 

      The best body butters to use are organic body butters that have not been refined and not been deodorized. Using a body butter that hastn't gone through the refining or deodorizing process means that your skin is getting a chemical-free moisturizer. It also means that your skin is getting all the benefits of the healing properties of the natural plant itself.

      Things to know about organic Shea Butter and other organic body butters:

      * Cocoa butter actually protects the skin from UV rays. It also has a light chocolate aroma when not deodorized.

      * Mango butter restores flexibility to the skin.

      * Organic body butters are easy to use in homemade skin care recipes.

      * The best time to apply a body butter is right after taking a shower.

      * Organic body butters are great for healing and softening the callouses on our feet.

      * Organic body butters contain antioxidants and vitamins for our skin.

      Shea body butters and other organic body butters are definitely a healthy alternative to commercial lotions. They can also be a time saver because you don't have to reapply!

      To buy Shea Butters Please
       go to the Mountain Rose Herbs Banner
       once in their site search in Products.



      Pure Natural Shea Butters


      100% Shea Butter - Or Is It? 60


      Pure Shea Butter

       

      With the ever-increasing popularity of organic body butterShea Butter is an ingredient that is becoming popular as a super-moisturizer. The best thing about organic shea butter is that it can be scooped right out of the jar and applied to the skin. Unfortunately, the most popular brands of skin care products do not contain 100% shea butter. The moisturizers that you buy at the store contain very little shea butter. These products mostly consist of vaseline, petrolatum or mineral oil which clog our pores and damage our skin over time. 

      The best body butters to use are organic body butters that have not been refined and not been deodorized. Using a body butter that hastn't gone through the refining or deodorizing process means that your skin is getting a chemical-free moisturizer. It also means that your skin is getting all the benefits of the healing properties of the natural plant itself.

      Things to know about organic Shea Butter and other organic body butters:

      * Cocoa butter actually protects the skin from UV rays. It also has a light chocolate aroma when not deodorized.

      * Mango butter restores flexibility to the skin.

      * Organic body butters are easy to use in homemade skin care recipes.

      * The best time to apply a body butter is right after taking a shower.

      * Organic body butters are great for healing and softening the callouses on our feet.

      * Organic body butters contain antioxidants and vitamins for our skin.

      Shea body butters and other organic body butters are definitely a healthy alternative to commercial lotions. They can also be a time saver because you don't have to reapply!

      To buy Shea Butters Please
       go to the Mountain Rose Herbs Banner
       once in their site search in Products.



      Pure Natural Shea Butters


      Forcing Bulb Basics



      The ever-so-lucky folks who live on the West coast probably take it for granted that they have flowers and green vegetation in their gardens all year round. The vast majority of us in Canada survive several months of the year without seeing a leaf or a blade of grass, let alone the luxury of a bright beautiful bloom. Don't get me wrong, we love the fragrant beauty of our pine needles, but a dash of bright colour really could make a world of difference during the long, cold, grey winter.

      So, why not bring those gorgeous, fragrant, spring flowers that we all wait so patiently for all winter long, indoors to bloom all winter long? Forcing bulbs is easy, fun, and guaranteed to cheer up any home during the winter-bound months. Read on to find out what it means to force bulbs, when you should start, how you should plant them, what it means to cool or chill your bulbs, and when you can expect them to start blooming. Also read a short guide on some of the easiest and most popular bulbs to force in your home.







      Forcing Bulb Basics


      At the simplest level, to force a bulb really means just that, to create an environment that pushes the bulb through its natural growth stages quicker than

      it would happen on its own - essentially you trick the bulb into blooming outside of its natural rhythm.

      Timing: The best time to get bulbs for forcing is in the fall or early winter months. Any time from September until December you will find healthy bulbs at your local nursery or flower shop, marked good for forcing. Often these stores will sell forcing kits, a complete package of everything you will need to grow your bulbs indoors, including the pot, the bulbs and step-by-step instructions. These kits are a great way to enjoy forcing bulbs with your kids. As a loose guide, if you want your bulbs to bloom in January, normally you'll need to begin forcing in early September, if you want them to bloom in February, begin in October and so on. Remember, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to grow, so do a bit of research before you begin.

      Potting: If you are planting bulbs in soil, choose a pot that is at least twice as tall, and as wide, as your bulb. Fill the pot with light potting soil and plant the bulb, pointed side facing up, just below the surface. You should be able to see the point of the bulb poking out of the soil. If you are planting multiple bulbs in one pot (which will give you a beautiful, full display) make sure to plant the bulbs close together, but never touching one another. Water the soil well, and be sure to keep it moist at all times, but never allow water to stand at the bottom of the pot; you must use a container with a good drainage hole.

      Water Culture: Several bulbs can be easily forced using water and pebbles, instead of soil. This is known as water culture. This is an especially fun way to force bulbs in a classroom or at home with your kids, because you can really see the roots develop and closely observe the changes to the bulb itself as it grows.

      For some bulbs, such as crocus or hyacinths, you can purchase special containers for forcing with water. The bulb sits in a small cup at the top of the container and the wider bottom portion of the container is filled with water. If you prefer to grow several bulbs together in water you should chose a wide, shallow container, fill it half full with pebbles, marbles or sea glass. Place bulbs on top of the layer of pebbles and then gently fill the rest of the container with pebbles, anchoring the bulbs in without completely covering them up. Put water into the container only to the level where it is touching the base of the bulbs.

      Note: It is very important not to have bulb submerged in water as they will quickly rot. Only have water touching the very base of the bulb and change water every few days to keep it fresh.


      Now that your bulbs are planted, you're not quite finished with them yet. Most bulb types are going to need a chilling period before they will flower. Read on to find out how it's done.

      Chilling Period: Outside in the garden, a bulb requires the cold winter season in order to store enough energy to grow tall stems and flowers in the spring. If you want to grow stems and flowers inside during the winter months, you will have to simulate this cold spell with your bulbs, either by storing them in a dark, cool basement or, in some cases, even keeping them in the refrigerator for several weeks. Each type of bulb requires a different chilling period, ranging anywhere from ten weeks to no more than a day or two. A basic rule to remember is to leave your bulbs in their cooling spot until they are showing hardy signs of growth, such as roots coming out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot or until that fresh stem is sprouting about two inches out of the top of the bulb.

      Blooming: Once the signs of growth are strong, it's time to move your plants out into the warmth and sunlight. Moving them in stages will help ensure healthier blooms. Start them off in a cooler area of your home, until they have adjusted to the warmer temperature and the brighter light. When stems take on a very healthy green colour, move them into full sunlight and watch the beauty unfold. Again, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to bloom and last for a different length of time. As a general rule, the cooler your home, the longer the flowers will last. Sadly, almost all forced bulbs will only grow once, as they have used up all of their stored energy during the forcing process. Once the flowers have died, discard your bulbs and the soil, clean the pots and put them away until next winter when you can begin the process all over again.




      Popular Bulbs for Forcing


      Technically, any bulb can be forced to bloom indoors, however, there are some that are much easier than others, and much more practical to try because of their fragrance, strength, or blooming period. Here are a few that are popular and relatively easy to force, along with some basic tips on how to get them to grow.

      Paper White Narcissus: One of the easiest bulbs to force indoors because these bulbs do not require much of a cooling period and will grow very quickly once they have been potted. If you buy the bulbs very early, before the end of September, you should store them in a cool dry place until you pot them, and it's recommended that you pot them before the end of October. Paper whites grow very well in water and pebbles. They are extremely fragrant.


      Amaryllis: A very easy bulb to force, these giant flowers will certainly add colour and delight to any home. Bulbs must be planted in soil, and be sure to leave at least an inch of space between the bulb and the sides of the container. Once you've planted your bulb near the surface of the soil, water well (ensure that your pot has drainage) and store in a sunny window. The warmth will encourage growth. Once growth begins, move to a cooler, shaded area so the blooms last. Healthy amaryllis will bloom for approximately one month and the leafy portions can be treated as a normal houseplant once the flowers are spent.

      Hyacinths: Can be forced in about eight to ten weeks and will grow in both soil and water and pebbles. Special hyacinth glasses are also available. These bulbs require a cooling period in a place with a temperature no higher than 10 C. Once roots have grown and the bulb has sprouted substantially (3 to 5 inches), move into a warm spot with direct sunlight. Hyacinths will bloom for about one week.

      Crocus: Crocus can also be grown both in soil and in water, and you can buy crocus glasses to fit individual bulbs. They will bloom in approximately 10 weeks and flowers last for several weeks, provided you keep them in a cool place. You'll need to cool your crocus in a dark dry place until roots have filled the glass or until you see a small pale shoot about an inch high. Place in indirect sun until shoot is bright green, then expose to full sunlight.


      Tulips: Everybody's favourite spring bloom can be grown indoors in the winter, but is one of the more difficult bulbs to force. Remember to always point the flat side of a tulip bulb toward the edge of the pot, as this is where the largest leaf will emerge. Tulips are prone to virus, so be sure that they have excellent drainage, and are exposed to good air circulation. Tulips require a very long chilling period - up to 16 weeks - in order to produce healthy blooms, so it's best to start forcing in early September, if you wish to have flowers by January.