Traducteur

Jan 18, 2010

Forcing Bulb Basics



The ever-so-lucky folks who live on the West coast probably take it for granted that they have flowers and green vegetation in their gardens all year round. The vast majority of us in Canada survive several months of the year without seeing a leaf or a blade of grass, let alone the luxury of a bright beautiful bloom. Don't get me wrong, we love the fragrant beauty of our pine needles, but a dash of bright colour really could make a world of difference during the long, cold, grey winter.

So, why not bring those gorgeous, fragrant, spring flowers that we all wait so patiently for all winter long, indoors to bloom all winter long? Forcing bulbs is easy, fun, and guaranteed to cheer up any home during the winter-bound months. Read on to find out what it means to force bulbs, when you should start, how you should plant them, what it means to cool or chill your bulbs, and when you can expect them to start blooming. Also read a short guide on some of the easiest and most popular bulbs to force in your home.







Forcing Bulb Basics


At the simplest level, to force a bulb really means just that, to create an environment that pushes the bulb through its natural growth stages quicker than

it would happen on its own - essentially you trick the bulb into blooming outside of its natural rhythm.

Timing: The best time to get bulbs for forcing is in the fall or early winter months. Any time from September until December you will find healthy bulbs at your local nursery or flower shop, marked good for forcing. Often these stores will sell forcing kits, a complete package of everything you will need to grow your bulbs indoors, including the pot, the bulbs and step-by-step instructions. These kits are a great way to enjoy forcing bulbs with your kids. As a loose guide, if you want your bulbs to bloom in January, normally you'll need to begin forcing in early September, if you want them to bloom in February, begin in October and so on. Remember, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to grow, so do a bit of research before you begin.

Potting: If you are planting bulbs in soil, choose a pot that is at least twice as tall, and as wide, as your bulb. Fill the pot with light potting soil and plant the bulb, pointed side facing up, just below the surface. You should be able to see the point of the bulb poking out of the soil. If you are planting multiple bulbs in one pot (which will give you a beautiful, full display) make sure to plant the bulbs close together, but never touching one another. Water the soil well, and be sure to keep it moist at all times, but never allow water to stand at the bottom of the pot; you must use a container with a good drainage hole.

Water Culture: Several bulbs can be easily forced using water and pebbles, instead of soil. This is known as water culture. This is an especially fun way to force bulbs in a classroom or at home with your kids, because you can really see the roots develop and closely observe the changes to the bulb itself as it grows.

For some bulbs, such as crocus or hyacinths, you can purchase special containers for forcing with water. The bulb sits in a small cup at the top of the container and the wider bottom portion of the container is filled with water. If you prefer to grow several bulbs together in water you should chose a wide, shallow container, fill it half full with pebbles, marbles or sea glass. Place bulbs on top of the layer of pebbles and then gently fill the rest of the container with pebbles, anchoring the bulbs in without completely covering them up. Put water into the container only to the level where it is touching the base of the bulbs.

Note: It is very important not to have bulb submerged in water as they will quickly rot. Only have water touching the very base of the bulb and change water every few days to keep it fresh.


Now that your bulbs are planted, you're not quite finished with them yet. Most bulb types are going to need a chilling period before they will flower. Read on to find out how it's done.

Chilling Period: Outside in the garden, a bulb requires the cold winter season in order to store enough energy to grow tall stems and flowers in the spring. If you want to grow stems and flowers inside during the winter months, you will have to simulate this cold spell with your bulbs, either by storing them in a dark, cool basement or, in some cases, even keeping them in the refrigerator for several weeks. Each type of bulb requires a different chilling period, ranging anywhere from ten weeks to no more than a day or two. A basic rule to remember is to leave your bulbs in their cooling spot until they are showing hardy signs of growth, such as roots coming out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot or until that fresh stem is sprouting about two inches out of the top of the bulb.

Blooming: Once the signs of growth are strong, it's time to move your plants out into the warmth and sunlight. Moving them in stages will help ensure healthier blooms. Start them off in a cooler area of your home, until they have adjusted to the warmer temperature and the brighter light. When stems take on a very healthy green colour, move them into full sunlight and watch the beauty unfold. Again, each type of bulb will take a different amount of time to bloom and last for a different length of time. As a general rule, the cooler your home, the longer the flowers will last. Sadly, almost all forced bulbs will only grow once, as they have used up all of their stored energy during the forcing process. Once the flowers have died, discard your bulbs and the soil, clean the pots and put them away until next winter when you can begin the process all over again.




Popular Bulbs for Forcing


Technically, any bulb can be forced to bloom indoors, however, there are some that are much easier than others, and much more practical to try because of their fragrance, strength, or blooming period. Here are a few that are popular and relatively easy to force, along with some basic tips on how to get them to grow.

Paper White Narcissus: One of the easiest bulbs to force indoors because these bulbs do not require much of a cooling period and will grow very quickly once they have been potted. If you buy the bulbs very early, before the end of September, you should store them in a cool dry place until you pot them, and it's recommended that you pot them before the end of October. Paper whites grow very well in water and pebbles. They are extremely fragrant.


Amaryllis: A very easy bulb to force, these giant flowers will certainly add colour and delight to any home. Bulbs must be planted in soil, and be sure to leave at least an inch of space between the bulb and the sides of the container. Once you've planted your bulb near the surface of the soil, water well (ensure that your pot has drainage) and store in a sunny window. The warmth will encourage growth. Once growth begins, move to a cooler, shaded area so the blooms last. Healthy amaryllis will bloom for approximately one month and the leafy portions can be treated as a normal houseplant once the flowers are spent.

Hyacinths: Can be forced in about eight to ten weeks and will grow in both soil and water and pebbles. Special hyacinth glasses are also available. These bulbs require a cooling period in a place with a temperature no higher than 10 C. Once roots have grown and the bulb has sprouted substantially (3 to 5 inches), move into a warm spot with direct sunlight. Hyacinths will bloom for about one week.

Crocus: Crocus can also be grown both in soil and in water, and you can buy crocus glasses to fit individual bulbs. They will bloom in approximately 10 weeks and flowers last for several weeks, provided you keep them in a cool place. You'll need to cool your crocus in a dark dry place until roots have filled the glass or until you see a small pale shoot about an inch high. Place in indirect sun until shoot is bright green, then expose to full sunlight.


Tulips: Everybody's favourite spring bloom can be grown indoors in the winter, but is one of the more difficult bulbs to force. Remember to always point the flat side of a tulip bulb toward the edge of the pot, as this is where the largest leaf will emerge. Tulips are prone to virus, so be sure that they have excellent drainage, and are exposed to good air circulation. Tulips require a very long chilling period - up to 16 weeks - in order to produce healthy blooms, so it's best to start forcing in early September, if you wish to have flowers by January.


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